BOTANICAL OILS & EXTRACTS
VEDANI BOTANICAL PRODUCTS AND MY BESPOKE OIL BLENDS CONTAIN (FIXED AND VOLATILE) PLANT OILS AND CO2 EXTRACTS.
Seed, kernel, nut and fruit pulp oils, like baobab, apricot, tamanu and avocado are fixed oils.
Essential oils like geranium, helichrysum and patchoili are volatile oils.
I use mainly certified organic fixed and essential oils, however in some cases, I use wild crafted.
Supercritical CO2 botanical extracts are obtained from the plant material using Carbon dioxide. This method is often described as 'gentle' as it allows for a wide range of active chemical compounds to be extracted without the risk of heat degradation or exposure to potentially toxic solvents. Composition of the CO2 extracts depends on the type of CO2 extraction (Select or Total) and will vary. Pesticides and other chemicals are easily extracted alongside the desirable chemical compounds so, I use organic in order to minimise/exclude the possibility of the contaminants being present.
Fixed plant oils are mainly made of triglycerides.
Triglycerides are built of 4 units - a glycerol and 3 fatty acids.
Fatty acids can be divided into 3 families – saturated, monounsaturated and polyunsaturated.
So, what is it all about?
Selecting plant oils for skin care formulations is a real art. Each plant oil has a unique composition of fatty acids and various other nutrients, which provide numerous skin benefits but at the same time will also influence the texture and the ‘feel’ of the product on the skin. It is all about fine balance.
Some specific fatty acids are now commonly mentioned in media. Below, we have provided a list of fatty acids found in our formulations. We thought you would enjoy being able to check who is who in the fatty acids world. I update and add to this list of botanical oils, please check back often to keep updated.
I do workshops and consultations, where we explore botanical oil properties and /skin type/condition suitability. If you are interested in workshops or consultations on botanical oils for skincare, please email me on email@example.com.
Saturated fatty acids:
Stearic acid, palmitic acid, lauric acid, eicosanoic acid, myristic acid and behenic acid
Monounsaturated fatty acids:
Omega 7: Palmitoleic acid and cis-vaccenic acid
Omega 9: Oleic acid and docosenoic acid/erucic acid
Omega 11: Gadoleic acid/9-eicosenoic acid
Polyunsaturated fatty acids:
Omega 3 (EFAs): Alpha-linolenic acid (ALA) and stearidonic acid (SDA)
Omega 5: Punicic acid (CLnA)
Omega 6 (EFAs): linoleic acid (LA), gamma Linolenic acid (GLA)
Below is a list of the plant oils used in Vedani Botanicals Skincare.
Fixed plant oils come with certificates of analysis, these reports show the fatty acid profile of the plant oil, not other nutrients.
References to key constituents are not proven, they are however taken from trusted well researched articles, publications and reports, which I have spent many years studying.
Apricot Kernel Oil, Prunus armeniaca
Why we love it: It is a fairly light and soothing oil, tolerated by most people, particularity useful for sensitive inflamed skin.
Fatty acid profile: Rich in oleic acid and linoleic acid, also small amounts of palmitic acid, stearic acid, palmitoliec acid, alpha linoleic acid, eicosenoic acid.
Key constituents: Said to contain, phytosterols, provitamin A, vitamin E and B17.
Found in: No.33
Avocado Oil, Persea gratissima
Why we love it: It has an intense colour, dark green, a tell-tale sign it is rich in skin soothing, nourishing, protecting goodies. Studies show avocado oil helps to support the skin’s collagen and skin barrier function.
Key constituents: oleic acid, palmitic acid, linoleic acid, palmitoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, stearic acid. Vitamins A, B, D and E, phytosterols and carotenoids.
Interesting notes: This oil is a classic example of how refined and unrefined plant oils differ. Refined oil is clear and very pale yellow/green in colour, while unrefined is dark green and opaque. So guess what happens during the refining process, how has it been treated, I dread to think! What has been removed – I will give you a clue – what gives the colour to plants?
Found in: No. 22, 23, 31, 32 & 33
Baobab oil, Adansonia digitata
Why we love it: It has skin loving, repairing, protecting vitamins. Thought to be regenerating, helping to support the skin’s collagen and elastin.
Constituents: Oleic acid, linoleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, vitamins A, D and E.
Found in: No. 31, 32 and 33.
Buriti, Mauritia flexuosa
Why we love about it: Its deep orange colour tells you all you need to know! Clue – what is orange in the plant world and is very beneficial to the skin? It is very high in carotenoids and beta-carotene, thought to help to prevent and repair damage from excess sun damage.
Key constituents: Oleic acid, palmitic acid, linoleic acid, alpha linolenic acid, stearic acid, vitamin E, carotenoids and beta-carotene.
Interesting notes: Called ‘tree of life’ in Brazil. Oil is thought to be helpful in prevention of scarring.
Found in: No.32&33
Chia seed oil, Salvia hispanica
Why we love it: It is incredibly high in Omega 3 fatty acid. Thought to be help prevent scarring.
Constituents: Alpha-linolenic acid, anti-oxidants, linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid.
Interesting notes: The seeds are unusual in that they contain higher amounts of alpha-linolenic acid (Omega 3) than linolenic acid (Omega 6).
Found in: No. 31 & 32
Coconut oil, Cocos nucifera
Why we love it: The virgin coconut oil used in our formulations is made from fresh coconuts (not from copra). Coconut oil is thought to be protecting, anti-bacterial and anti-viral.
Constituents: Lauric acid, myristic acid, palmitic acid, capric acid, oleic acid, stearic acid, linoleic acid.
Found in: No.33
Hazelnut Oil, Corylus avellana
What we love it for: It is tannins!
Constituents: Oleic acid, linoleic acid, palmitic acid and stearic acid.
Found in: No. 21, 22, 23, 31, 32
Hemp Seed Oil, Cannabis sativa
What we adore: A very special oil. Dark green in colour, showing us it is rich in goodies.
Constituents: linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, gamma-linolenic acid, stearidonic acid, eicosanoic acid and behenic acid.
Found in: No.21, 22, 23, 31 & 32
Jojoba, Simmondsia chinensis
What we love it for: It has a rather unusual chemistry making it a liquid wax rather than an oil. It is also rather similar to human skin oil (sebum). Jojoba oil is thought to be excellent at helping to prevent water loss. It has a reputation for being suitable for oily skin, however, during our journey of creating bespoke blends for problematic skins, we have found that it does not always suit skins prone to blocked pores.
Constituents: eicosanoic acid, docosenoic acid/erucic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, palmitoleic acid stearic acid, alpha-linolenic acid.
Found in: No.23 & 33.
Pomegranate Seed Oil, Punica granatum
Why we absolutely adore it: For its amazing constituents, punicic acid, a rare Omega 5 fatty acid, with outstanding skin benefits and unusual antioxidants - ellagic acid and gallic acid – just to name a few.
Constituents: Punicic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, gadoleic acid, ellagic acid, gallic acid, phytosterols, flavonoids and polyphenols.
Good for Found in: No.31, 32, 33
Rosehip Seed Oil, Rosa canina, Rosa rubiginosa
Why we love it: It has a worldwide reputation for scar and hyperpigmentation reducing properties.
Constituents: Linoleic acid, alpha-linolenic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid, myristic acid, eiosanoic acid, behenic acid, carotenoids as well as vitamins C and E.
Sacha inchi oil, Plukenetia volubilis
Why we adore it: For its incredibly high Omega 3 content. Margaret Karlinski sourced this oil and we have been in love with its super silky texture ever since. It is a rich source of antioxidants and Vitamins A and E.
Constituents: Alpha-linolenic acid, linoleic acid, oleic acid, palmitic acid, stearic acid.
Found in: No. 31, 32 & 33
Sea buckthorn seed and fruit oils, Hippophae rhamnoides
Why we adore it: Its intense deep orange, is one clue that it is jam packed full of skin loving goodies.
Constituents: Just some of the compounds within the oil include: Omega 3 and Omega 6 essential fatty acids and the rare Omega 7 fatty acid – cis-vaccenic acid - vitamins A, C, E, K, carotenoids and flavonoids
Interesting notes: Sea buckthorn is attributed with being nature’s most abundant source of Omega 7.
Sesame Oil, Sesamum indicum
Why we adore it: For its sesamol and sesamin content, a very underestimated oil, it has some amazing properties.
Constituents: phytosterols, anti-oxidants, Omega 3 and 6
Found in: All blends
Tamanu Oil, Calophyllum inophyllum
Why we cannot live without it. This is a truly incredible oil, its dark green colour hinting at its beneficial constituents.
Constituents: This is a truly unusual plant oil! It contains palmitic acid and stearic acid as well as Omega 6 and 9 fatty acids. Various rare flavonoid compounds, such as calophyllolide and calophyllic acid, are also found in this oil.
Interesting notes: The tamanu tree is considered sacred in Tahiti, where it has been used for healing since ancient times.
Found in: All blends.